Window Screen Replacement & Repair Cost Guide (2026)

Window screen replacement costs $75 to $300 per screen installed for a new frame and mesh. Rescreening an existing frame -- replacing just the mesh while keeping the aluminum frame -- costs $25 to $75 per screen. The price depends on the screen material, the window size, and whether the frame needs replacing or just the mesh.

I am John, owner of Colfax Glass, and screen replacement is one of the most common service calls we get -- especially in spring when homeowners in Colfax, Auburn, and Roseville open their windows for the first time since fall and discover torn mesh, bent frames, or screens that are missing entirely. For Sierra Foothills homes, screens are not optional -- they are the barrier between your living space and the mosquitoes, wasps, pine needles, and wildlife that come with foothill living.

The range between $75 and $300 per screen is wide because the options vary significantly. A basic fiberglass mesh in a standard aluminum frame is at the low end. A pet-resistant screen that can handle dog claws is in the middle. A solar screen that blocks 70-90% of solar heat gain while maintaining airflow is at the high end. Each has a specific use case, and overspending on the wrong type is as common as underspending.

This guide breaks down the real costs for every screen type, explains when repair makes sense versus full replacement, compares DIY versus professional installation, and covers the screen-specific issues Sierra Foothills homeowners deal with -- from pet damage to wildfire smoke to the UV degradation that comes with 250+ days of sunshine per year.

The first question is whether your existing screen frames are in good enough condition to rescreen, or whether the frames themselves need replacing. This decision drives the cost more than any other factor.

Rescreening means removing the old mesh and spline (the rubber cord that holds the mesh in the frame channel), cutting new mesh to size, and pressing new spline into the channel to secure it. The frame stays as-is. This works when the aluminum frame is straight, the corners are tight, and the channel (the groove that holds the spline) is not bent or corroded. Rescreening costs $25 to $75 per screen for professional service, with most standard-size screens falling in the $35 to $55 range.

Full replacement means fabricating a new aluminum frame with new mesh. This is necessary when frames are bent beyond straightening, when corners have separated or cracked, when the channel is crushed or corroded to the point where spline will not hold, or when the frame dimensions no longer match the window (common after a window replacement project where the new windows have slightly different screen track dimensions). Full replacement costs $75 to $300 per screen depending on size, material, and screen type.

Here is a quick diagnostic: pull the screen out of the window and lay it on a flat surface. If the frame rocks (not flat), if you can see gaps at the corners, if the channel is crushed in spots, or if the frame has visible corrosion -- replace it. If the frame is flat, square, and the channel is clean and intact, rescreening is the cost-effective choice.

The mesh material accounts for most of the performance difference between screen types. All standard window screens use an aluminum or fiberglass frame, but the mesh options range from basic fiberglass at $0.15 per square foot to stainless steel at $2.00+ per square foot.

Fiberglass mesh is the default and the most cost-effective. It is flexible, does not dent or crease, resists corrosion, and installs easily. The standard 18x16 mesh (18 strands per inch horizontal, 16 vertical) blocks insects while allowing good airflow. Fiberglass does degrade under UV exposure -- in the Sierra Foothills, where we get 250+ days of sunshine, standard fiberglass mesh typically lasts 5 to 8 years before becoming brittle and tearing easily. Charcoal (dark gray) fiberglass provides better outward visibility than silver or bright aluminum mesh because darker mesh disappears visually from inside the home.

Aluminum mesh is more rigid and durable than fiberglass, lasting 10 to 15 years in most conditions. It costs slightly more and is harder to install because it does not stretch the way fiberglass does. Aluminum can dent and does not bounce back to shape. It also oxidizes over time, which can leave gray residue on window sills. Good for high-durability applications but fiberglass is preferred for most residential use.

Pet-resistant screen (typically sold as "pet screen" or "pet-proof screen") uses vinyl-coated polyester in a heavier gauge than standard mesh. Products like Phifer PetScreen are seven times stronger than standard fiberglass, according to Phifer, the largest screen mesh manufacturer in the U.S. Pet screen resists clawing, pushing, and chewing from dogs and cats. The tradeoff is reduced airflow (about 15-20% less than standard mesh) and a slightly more visible mesh pattern from inside. Cost runs $100 to $350 per screen installed.

Solar screen (also called sun screen or shade screen) is a heavier-gauge mesh designed to block 70-90% of solar heat gain before it reaches the glass. It works like an exterior shade, stopping heat on the outside of the window where it can dissipate rather than trapping it between the screen and the glass. Solar screens reduce cooling costs in hot climates -- a relevant benefit for Sierra Foothills homes that see summer highs above 100 degrees. According to the Department of Energy, exterior shading devices like solar screens can reduce solar heat gain by up to 70%. The tradeoff: solar screens reduce outward visibility and darken the room. Cost runs $120 to $400 per screen installed.

Stainless steel mesh is the premium option for security and durability. It resists cutting, does not corrode, and lasts 20+ years. Common in security screen doors and high-value applications. Cost is $200 to $500+ per screen and is overkill for standard window applications.

Most homes have 10 to 20 screened openings, including windows, sliding doors, and sometimes screen doors. The total project cost depends on how many screens need work, whether they need rescreening or full replacement, and the mesh material selected.

For a typical 10-screen project in the Sierra Foothills -- standard fiberglass mesh, mix of rescreening and full replacement -- budget $500 to $1,500 total. A 15-screen project with some pet screens and a couple of solar screens on the west-facing side runs $1,200 to $3,000.

The economies of scale are real. A glass or screen shop that comes out for one screen charges a trip fee or minimum that makes a single screen cost $75 to $100 even for a simple rescreen. The same shop doing 10 screens on the same visit brings the per-screen cost down to $35 to $65 for rescreening or $75 to $150 for full replacement. If you need multiple screens addressed, batching them into one project saves significantly on a per-screen basis.

Rescreening is one of the more accessible DIY home projects. The materials cost $5 to $15 per screen, the tools cost $15 to $25 total (spline roller, utility knife, and clips), and the technique is learnable in one or two screens. If you have 10 or more screens to rescreen and the frames are all in good condition, the savings are substantial.

The materials you need: screen mesh sold in rolls (fiberglass mesh costs $15 to $30 for a 36-inch by 84-inch roll that covers 3-5 standard screens), spline cord in the correct diameter for your frame channel (typically 0.140-inch or 0.160-inch, $5 to $8 per 25-foot roll), a spline roller tool ($8 to $15), a utility knife, and clips or clamps to hold the mesh while you work.

The process: remove the old spline and mesh, lay the new mesh over the frame with 1-2 inches of overhang on all sides, use the convex side of the spline roller to press the mesh into the channel, then use the concave side to push the spline in on top of the mesh. Work one side at a time -- press the mesh into the channel on one long side first, then the opposite side while pulling the mesh taut, then the two short sides. Trim excess mesh with a utility knife.

Where DIY falls short: frame fabrication. If your frames need replacing, you need an aluminum frame saw, corner insertion tools, and the correct extrusion profile. Frame fabrication is a shop operation -- attempting it without the right equipment produces frames that are out of square, do not sit in the window track properly, and look noticeably different from factory screens. If frames need replacing, hire a professional.

Also, screen tension matters more than most DIYers realize. Under-tensioned screens sag and bow in the middle. Over-tensioned screens pull the frame inward. Professional rescreening produces consistent tension across the mesh surface, which affects both appearance and durability. A saggy screen collects water, sags further under the weight, and tears prematurely.

Not all window screens are interchangeable. The screen type matches the window operation style, and using the wrong screen causes fit issues, operational problems, and premature wear.

Double-hung windows use half-screen or full-screen inserts that sit in a track on the exterior side of the window. Half-screens cover the lower sash only; full-screens cover the entire window. Half-screens are more common because they are less expensive and the upper sash is typically fixed. These are the easiest screens to rescreen or replace because they lift out of the track with spring-loaded tabs or turn clips.

Casement windows (crank-out style) use screens that mount on the interior side of the window because the sash swings outward. Casement screens are typically full-size and attach with turn clips or plunger pins. They need to be removed before operating the window, which means they get handled more often and sustain more wear.

Sliding windows use screens that sit in a track and slide horizontally. The screen covers the fixed-pane side while the operable sash is open. These screens have rollers at the bottom and a spring-loaded top that compresses into the upper track. Roller failure is the most common issue -- when rollers wear out or break, the screen drags in the track and damages both the screen frame and the track.

Sliding glass doors use large rolling screens that are heavier and more complex than window screens. Replacement runs $100 to $350 because the frame is larger, the rollers are heavier-duty, and the track hardware often needs attention at the same time. If your sliding door screen is sticking or jumping the track, the rollers and track condition matter as much as the screen itself.

The Sierra Foothills environment creates screen challenges that flat-terrain suburbs do not face. Knowing these helps you choose the right material and replacement schedule.

UV degradation is the primary killer of window screens in the foothills. With 250+ sunny days per year and intense high-altitude UV, standard fiberglass mesh becomes brittle faster here than in coastal or valley locations. South and west-facing screens take the worst beating. If your south-facing screens are tearing after 4-5 years while north-facing screens last 8+, UV is the cause. Consider solar screen on south and west exposures -- it blocks heat and lasts longer under UV because the heavier mesh is more resistant to embrittlement.

Pine needles, oak debris, and seasonal pollen clog screens in the foothills. Standard 18x16 mesh handles this fine, but screens need periodic cleaning (a garden hose and soft brush, once or twice per year) to maintain airflow. Clogged screens reduce ventilation and trap moisture against the mesh, accelerating corrosion on aluminum mesh and degradation on fiberglass.

Wildlife pressure is real. Raccoons, squirrels, and bears in the higher foothill areas (Foresthill, Colfax, Grass Valley) can push through standard fiberglass screen easily. Pet screen resists animal claws and pushing. For homes with recurring wildlife screen damage, pet screen on ground-floor windows is a cost-effective upgrade that pays for itself in avoided replacement cycles.

Wildfire smoke and air quality events are increasingly common in the foothills. Standard window screens do not filter smoke particulates -- the mesh openings are far larger than PM2.5 particles. During smoke events, windows should be closed regardless of screen type. Some homeowners invest in MERV-rated filter screens for specific windows, but these restrict airflow significantly and are not recommended as permanent screens.

The practical recommendation for most foothill homes: fiberglass mesh on north and east exposures (lower UV), solar screen on south and west exposures (blocks heat and resists UV better), and pet screen on any ground-floor window where animals have caused previous damage.

The most cost-effective time to replace screens is during a window replacement project. If you are already replacing windows, the screens for the new windows are usually included in the window price or available at a reduced add-on cost. New windows come with screens spec'd to the exact frame dimensions, which eliminates the measurement and fabrication step that drives up standalone screen replacement costs.

If your windows are not due for replacement but your screens are shot, standalone screen replacement is still straightforward. The key is batching -- replacing all damaged screens in one service call rather than one at a time. The trip charge and setup time are the same whether we do 2 screens or 12, so the per-screen cost drops significantly on larger jobs.

If your windows show signs of needing replacement -- failed seals, condensation between panes, drafts, or visible deterioration -- it may not make sense to invest in new screens for windows you will replace within the next year or two. The new windows will come with new screens sized to fit. Spending $50 per screen now only to discard them in 12 months is wasted money.

One exception: if screen damage is causing a functional problem right now -- insects getting in, wildlife entering, no ability to open windows for ventilation -- a temporary rescreen at $25 to $50 per screen buys you comfort until the window project happens. Use standard fiberglass for the temporary fix; do not invest in premium mesh for screens that will be replaced with the windows.

Colfax Glass handles screen replacement and rescreening across the I-80 corridor -- Colfax, Auburn, Grass Valley, Nevada City, Foresthill, Loomis, Rocklin, and Roseville. We fabricate screens in-shop to exact measurements, which means a precise fit for your specific window frame.

The process: bring your existing screens to the shop for rescreening (same-day turnaround in most cases), or schedule a service call where we measure, fabricate, and install on-site. For full-house projects, we typically measure on the first visit and return with completed screens within 2-3 business days.

We stock fiberglass mesh in standard and heavy-duty gauges, pet screen, solar screen, and aluminum mesh. Specialty materials (stainless steel, fine-mesh pollen screen) are available on a 5-7 day lead time.

Spring is our busiest season for screen work -- homeowners opening up after winter discover damage from storms, animals, and UV degradation. Scheduling early in spring (March-April) gets you faster turnaround than waiting until the May-June rush when everyone in the foothills discovers their screens are torn at the same time.